Francis Libiran’s Homage to the Golden Age of Art Deco in the Philippines

By Vennette Lailani Seprado

This year, we witnessed several personalities bend wedding traditions by choosing to wear bridal gowns in the softest shades of pink. The most notable ones were recent brides such as Mandy Moore in her frothy Rodarte and Marta Ortega of Zara in her minimalist blush Valentino.

“The rules on wedding traditions are relaxing and women have become more creative and assertive with their preference for more color. That is why Francis Libiran‘s bridal collection which incorporates pastels not just for the entourage but for the bride herself is not only timely, it’s worth considering.”

Francis Libiran is one of the most established names in Philippine fashion today. Celebrities, members of the social set, even the country’s most beloved beauty queens have worn and won in his dazzling creations.

His background in architecture has given him his distinct design style. Known for his innovative ways to manipulate structure and form in garments, his latest collection is perhaps his most romantic and ethereal to date. Inspired by the golden age of Art Deco in the Philippines, his clothes showcased his penchant for geometric patterns and linear motifs softened with delicate threadwork, ornate embroideries and usage of materials such as floral appliques, ruffled organdy and fine ostrich feathers.

Art Deco is a visual arts movement that originated in a French design exposition in 1925. It is a type of architecture highlighted by clear lines; geometrical patterns and vibrant colors inspired Egyptian, Aztec and African art. The style was also essentially a reaction to its predecessor, the heavily ornamented Art Nouveau, and a precursor to mid-century Modernism. It was a style that influenced design in architecture, sculpture, painting, dance, music, fashion, jewelry even automobiles and appliances.

In the Philippines, Art Deco reached its height between the 1920s and 30s, a brief period of peace before the Second World War. Fueled by the American enthusiasm for construction, design, order and nation building – Filipino architects flourished in creating architectural gems which were considered the height of modernity. Privileged Filipino architects educated in Europe and America brought the Art Deco spirit home and gave it brilliant twists by developing a tropical variant of the style using native materials such as wood and capiz. The Philippine version of Art Deco commonly featured stylized tropical flora and fauna ornamented pillars, balustrades, staircases, ceiling murals, gates, doors, windows, glass, grillwork, balconies and terraces which can still be seen today.

Francis Libiran’s latest collection celebrates the glamour and luxury of the period not just in architecture per se but in the period’s approach to ornamentation and styling. Models strutted down the runway like goddess relief sculptures coming to life in their frocks of pastel blues and lilacs. It’s easy to see the design influences in his collection with his fully embellished pieces. Intricate beadwork traces the contours of the body in fine linear patterns and curves. Bold accessories such as glitterized stocking-shoes, fancy footwear, embellished sheer gloves and exquisite jewelry add to the opulence of that bygone era.